Showing posts with label vineyard parameters. Show all posts
Showing posts with label vineyard parameters. Show all posts

Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Paso's May heat? Man, it's tough to beat


Wow, a month ago I wrote about all the blooms we had, some 40-60/vine in mid May, which meant that we would have something like 20-40 clusters to thin by mid June. Well, glad we held our horses(actually got behind in vineyard chores is more like it), because by the time our fruit set was complete, we had lost virtually all those "extra" blooms we were going to be choosy and pick from. No need. Mother Nature stepped in and hammered our blooms with 5 days in the 110 to 116 degree category, which now effectively wiped out all but 16-20 clusters per vine...right exactly where we are supposed to be for a vineyard that makes 2.5-3.0 Ton/ acre grapes. Had we jumped the gun, and cluster thinned, I hate to think how many clusters we might now have hanging. Six maybe? Possibly eight? Or could we have gotten clobbered and had only 2-3 clusters/ vine remaining? No question, there is nothing wrong with waiting for a situation to develop, and then allowing it to straighten itself out on its own. Those poor growers who were out there thinning clusters just before bloom, have to be crying in their soup, because our May heat spike literally wiped out 2/3 of our blooms. If we started at 60, we are now at 2o (or less), which is right in our sweet spot.

Is there a lesson here? Yeah, one of which it is better to be lucky than good. I could have just as easily as the next grower gone out and gotten a head start on cluster thinning. I did, however, have this nagging reminder about last yr's mid to late May heat spike. Ooops, make that last 3 yr's heat spike in mid to later May. Each time the 115 degree heat crunched our clusters, many of which were just about to set fruit. Watchful waiting, or rather being just a touch behind in vineyard chores, was a Godsend for us. We now have just about exactly what we need on the vine, clusterwise, and literally had the incredible May heat to thank for it.

Other goodies of note, were the massive amount of Live Oak trees that got so hot, they literally just burst apart. We had something like 5 Live Oaks all down where they had burst apart due to massively excessive heat. It also got that hot in the vineyard, where I encountered one tough 11 yr old vine that had literally burst apart, leaving a split down the center of the vine that literally killed it. I missed it at first, thinking maybe a tractor tread may have been the culprit, but no, it was completely a result of Mother Nature applying the heat. We have to accept it tho, for as they say, "If you can't stand the heat, get out of the kitchen". There are many diseases and pestilences vines can succumb to...but bursting apart due to heat just isn't one of them...usually.

Other concerns included the massive wipeout of our 6 acre valley vineyard, which continued to freeze at nites, up to the first week in May. Think that was a problem? Well no, but the heat spike did fry up at least half our vines, literally cutting them off about 10 inches above the cordon, and then having them try and regrow, with 2 or sometimes as many as three new canes emanating from whence the heat spike sawed the vine in half. All those Pinot vines had beautiful, full, perfectly formed clusters on them, but with no real cane above the "fry" line, there will never be enough leaves to allow this fruit to ripen. Result? Well, the Pinot we planned on this yr, all 8-10 Tons of it, now looks more like 1-2 Tons, and that is guessing on the high side. The fruit was still there, mind you, it just means we had to go and drop all those beautiful clusters. That is a heartbreaker, let me tell you.

Vineyardwise, we now have but a few more chores, which means tying last yr's Pinot grafts onto the wire...training, it is called...and checking to see if any other vine/vines have succumbed to the intense heat and superimposed drought. After the heat spike ended, we did cut back our last remaining acre of Cab Sauv in the valley vineyard, and grafted on some Sauv Blanc. Close to 98% is doing well, and it looks like we may have a little bit of whites for our guests next yr.

In the mountain vineyard, besides the one vine virtually rupturing from heat, we also developed some major league dessication of much of the vineyard growing out of pure limestone. These vines need more water than others, which is being applied as I write this. Fertilizer will go on next, but first we have to bring our vines up to par with moisture, which will be in the neighborhood of 6-7 gallons of water per vine. We are starting to see a bit of yellowing, which can be from too little water(true), to not enough Nitrogen, also true. When you have a mountain vineyard literally planted into limestone, it is very difficult to manufacture good soil for it. Hence the fertilizer, organic acid based.
Well, that's a wrap for today, but will get the next one out much sooner, due to no more pourings in the near future. This is the colorless time of yr, when everything is green if on the vine, and dried out dead if not. The many colors of spring are long since gone, as I should be, since there is irrigating to do. Just no more heat spikes...please?

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

The Perfect Grape


Why not? We have cottage industries searching for the perfect form, the perfect body, the perfect skin…why not the perfect grape? 2000 years ago the Romans certainly enjoyed their wine. 3000 years before that hieroglyphic record shows that the Egyptians certainly enjoyed theirs. So why would a wine lover not try to make the elusive perfect wine, which ultimately led them to searching for the perfect vine, the perfect grape? Certainly today there are those questing for the world’s best wine, the perfect wine; Wine Spectator votes yearly on the world’s best wine. Where, then, is a better place to start than by growing the world’s best grape?

It is a simple process, really. Find the perfect site, preferably with the perfect weather where day/nite temperature splits of 55 to 60 degrees are the norm. Perfectly drained limestone soil and vineyard orientation with southerly facing is a must. Add elevation and steeply sloped hills/ mountains, have adequate rainfall, (but none during grape ripening), and the location is perfectly set. Vigorous rootstock and hardy clonal selection must be perfect for the unforgiving nutrient depleted limestone soil. Spur arrangement and spacing thru yearly ongoing assiduous pruning and thinning allows enough room for each and every cluster, each and every grape, to breathe and bask in the sun’s natural light. Post verasion any cluster touching another should be removed; this ensures maximal airflow and light available to the grape, greatly reducing chances of mildew or mold, and assures even ripening throughout the individual cluster.

Canopy management is essential and if grapes are on trellis, movable guide wires can allow for more shade or sun depending on environmental and climatic conditions. Irrigation if available should be minimal to non-existent once grapes have gone thru verasion. Prior to verasion, testing for and replenishment of the soil’s nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and minerals) is of paramount importance. Prevention of rot or mildew must be undertaken, but in low yield vines, this is a much lesser problem, if at all.

Once grapes begin to ripen, Brix levels, pH, and TA(total acidity) should be checked and followed so comparisons can be made in future years. Lastly, the fun part, daily tasting of grapes, waiting for the perfect flavors ---blackberry, raspberry, dark cherry, strawberry, huckleberry, cassis---to mature is the final step for growing the elusive perfect grape. Picking too soon may leave some or many grapes not fully ripened, hence tannic or vegetal…both unpleasant. Full cluster sampling gives the best indication of…is this vine ready or not? Overly ripe fruit can be as bad as underly ripe; there is a perfect time to pick in each microclimate of the vineyard, and failure to pick exactly at that moment will not give one the desired result. Watching intersecting lines of pH and TA is good form, but ultimately, the flavor, and in some cases the bouquet of the grape must be just perfect. Harvest then, rush the grapes to the crush pad, and if you do not have the perfect grape, you will be close enough.

So is there a perfect grape? Well, we here at Cerro Prieto think so, and our history shows that if grapes can receive this kind of individual attention and care, they can qualify as the perfect grape. One thing: there is no such thing as a shortcut in the quest. Too high a tonnage of grapes/acre(greater than 2.5-3.0 T/acre), improper pruning/thinning, inattention to nutrient or water needs, rushing or overly delaying harvest…all can defeat the quest. But if all the above occurs, and quirks of nature don’t intervene, the perfect grape may be elusive… but it is certainly attainable, and better yet, is reproducible.

Then, once the perfect grape is in hand(or rather, in the barrel)…the perfect wine is not far off.